To me, Ylang 49 is Le Labo’s modern and edgy take on a Chypre fragrance. It’s very bare bones and reductionist, cutting out a lot of the deeper qualities chypres are supposed to have and instead going with the basics. An overdose of earthy yet clean and masculine patchouli dominates the scent, with heaps of ylang providing that thick, rubbery and slightly sour floral touch. This is smoothed out by the gentle creaminess of oakmoss, alongside gardenia and a woody base. As I said it’s very reductionist, comes across rather synthetic like most of their fragrances, but I sort of like it. Not enough to buy a full bottle, but enough to wear my sample and enjoy it.
What!!!! I haven't reviewed this until now???? What is going on??? I think it's a reflection on just how much I overlook this brand as a collection primarily about gimmick and marketing, not that there's anything wrong with that, but Le Labo were somewhat of a trendsetter and many, many, lesser pretenders to he minimal, laboratory aesthetic were spawned due to their success, but in fairness the fragrances are remarkably good and pretty original on the whole. This is one Ylang 49, upon a recent (probably 2-3 years ago lol) return to trying them again, turns out to be one of the best. It's like an energized, vibrant topped, classic, chypre type perfume but with a kind of exoticism about it. Like many Le Labo perfumes, the name is often a red herring and might discourage people who think they don't really like Ylang or at least don't think they want a Ylang centric perfume, even if they do like it, (I find Ylang supporting role more crucial as a rule) wouldn't be something for them....I'd urge you to reconsider this perfume, because it's an absolute gem!!! Mossy, earthy but bright and also fun and with lush florality. I actually want to get it, and it's rare I say that these days, not because there's not good perfume around, just because I'm skint and have a shitload already but I could honestly say that this would be something timeless to grace my collection, I get the Aromatics Elixir connection some have made above, (praise indeed BTW because that is fantastic!) but it's way less stuffy and fundamentally different in many ways too. Feels more modern. I love this.
What is Ylang 49?! It’s definitely not a soliflore and it’s definitely not tropical. It’s meaty though. It’s got that quality of dark floral chypres that weigh on the drama. Peaty. Not leather, but a carnivore quality. Ylang 49, while not smelling like them, reminds me of the bitter ointment and medicine aspect that is hidden in Aromatics, and also that rich and heady, dimly lit ambiance of Knowing, where a very brooding rose and some very heavy white florals play hide and seek with a sinister civet and angry oakmoss. But Ylang also has a compelling banana peel aspect, as if to honor the name. It’s Ylang to the fullest via two of the best chypres ever made. I really think this is the best Le Labo there is!