Under My Skin est l'interprétation du thème animalier par Francesca, mais étonnamment, ce n'est pas son parfum le plus animal à mon sens ; cependant, le nom fait référence à l'idée qu'au fond, ce parfum reste quelque chose de plus subtilement humain qu'ouvertement animal. Et quelle beauté ! Pour moi, il s'agit d'un parfum de cuir presque oriental - comme c'est souvent le cas dans le travail de Bianchi, le cuir et l'orris sont au premier plan de la composition, avec un dosage de 15% d'irone qui donne un effet sec, beurré, poudré et légèrement terreux au cuir, qui est à son tour épaissi par un mélange de tolu et de baume du Pérou. Le musc, le castoréum et l'ambre gris forment un trio parfaitement musqué, mais pas au point d'être impoli, car il est parfaitement équilibré par les épices et la lavande. C'est un parfum audacieux, qui respire la puissance et la confiance, il n'est pas aussi intime ou sensuel que certains de ses autres travaux, mais d'une certaine manière, il est rafraîchissant en ce sens. J'adore ce parfum, la combinaison du cuir poudré et des épices est parfaite.
Slightly fishy, mimosa skank-fest. It's wondeful but I can't imagine wearing it. The Lover's Tale is the limit for me with the Bianchi animalic fug. I'm glad to have a decent to wear to bed though.
So this has been a long time coming, I'd heard massively positive things about Francesca's work and was slow to get samples, for some strange reason? Anyway I started with Under my skin as this appeared to be the one with the most reviews and one that people seemed to be feeling earth-moving, epoch shattering connections with. Well I have to say I didn't feel all that connected to Under my skin at first. The quality materials and swathes of heavy, animal tinged spices explode out of the bottle at you. I love cumin and this has that sweaty, animalic, civet replacement dose but frankly it felt a little clumsy and kinda all over the place in the opening. I had the same thoughts as Bengale Rouge recently... Was this really the scent that was compared to vintage Guerlain's and the like? Because at the moment it feels distinctly Indy like. However, similar to Bengale Rouge it's an ugly ducking that becomes the proverbial swan and the drydown soars majestically. It gets progressively, sweeter, muskier and everything tightens up or loosens off? (one of them?) a bit like the skin or epidermal layer this is apparently under? Well, not apparently, it is under, and after two hours all the chaotic 'offness' had gone and it was under mine for sure. The soft, spicy, animalic undertones are just like warm, slightly dirty fur. The spicy cinnamon facets, lending a kind of tolu balm sense of subtly and a sweet musky nature throughout, balances perfectly now, and all is calm and right with the world. I learned the lesson a long time ago that some (especially indy and largely natural) fragrances have to go through some exceptionally potent (to the point of unpleasantness) phases to reach the place they really want to be...which is dried down and working with our skin, which is exactly where this perfume is at home....On skin....or under in? whatever?!?!? I will wear it properly to determine my thoughts further but it's a real heavy hitter and projected strongly as well as being super tenacious.
Under My Skin, c'est l'extraction du musc de l'ombre ; c'est un portail immersif et hypnotique où l'on se sent glisser lentement dans les profondeurs d'une piscine sans lumière parfumée au cuir, au bois de santal et à l'iris et - c'est peut-être simplement l'association de mon cerveau avec le nom du parfum et un film au titre similaire - c'est une interprétation olfactive de l'étrange morceau de cordes minimaliste qui confère peur et mystère aux méthodes utilisées par la tentatrice extraterrestre pour attirer et capturer sa proie dans Under the Skin.