Under My Skin es la interpretación de Francesca del tema animal, pero sorprendentemente no me parece su fragancia más animal; sin embargo, el nombre hace referencia a la idea de que, en el fondo, esta fragancia sigue siendo algo más sutilmente humano que abiertamente animal. Y qué belleza. Como es habitual en la obra de Bianchi, el cuero y el lirio ocupan el primer plano de la composición, con una dosis del 15% de irona, que proporciona un efecto abrumadoramente seco, mantecoso, empolvado y ligeramente terroso al cuero, que a su vez se espesa en gran medida con una combinación de bálsamos de tolú y de Perú. El almizcle, el castóreo y el ámbar gris forman un trío perfectamente almizclado, pero no hasta el punto de resultar descortés, ya que está perfectamente equilibrado por las especias y la lavanda. Es una fragancia atrevida, desprende poder y confianza, no resulta tan íntima ni sensual como otros de sus trabajos, pero en cierto modo es refrescante en ese sentido. Me encanta esta fragancia, la combinación de cuero empolvado y especias es perfecta.
Slightly fishy, mimosa skank-fest. It's wondeful but I can't imagine wearing it. The Lover's Tale is the limit for me with the Bianchi animalic fug. I'm glad to have a decent to wear to bed though.
So this has been a long time coming, I'd heard massively positive things about Francesca's work and was slow to get samples, for some strange reason? Anyway I started with Under my skin as this appeared to be the one with the most reviews and one that people seemed to be feeling earth-moving, epoch shattering connections with. Well I have to say I didn't feel all that connected to Under my skin at first. The quality materials and swathes of heavy, animal tinged spices explode out of the bottle at you. I love cumin and this has that sweaty, animalic, civet replacement dose but frankly it felt a little clumsy and kinda all over the place in the opening. I had the same thoughts as Bengale Rouge recently... Was this really the scent that was compared to vintage Guerlain's and the like? Because at the moment it feels distinctly Indy like. However, similar to Bengale Rouge it's an ugly ducking that becomes the proverbial swan and the drydown soars majestically. It gets progressively, sweeter, muskier and everything tightens up or loosens off? (one of them?) a bit like the skin or epidermal layer this is apparently under? Well, not apparently, it is under, and after two hours all the chaotic 'offness' had gone and it was under mine for sure. The soft, spicy, animalic undertones are just like warm, slightly dirty fur. The spicy cinnamon facets, lending a kind of tolu balm sense of subtly and a sweet musky nature throughout, balances perfectly now, and all is calm and right with the world. I learned the lesson a long time ago that some (especially indy and largely natural) fragrances have to go through some exceptionally potent (to the point of unpleasantness) phases to reach the place they really want to be...which is dried down and working with our skin, which is exactly where this perfume is at home....On skin....or under in? whatever?!?!? I will wear it properly to determine my thoughts further but it's a real heavy hitter and projected strongly as well as being super tenacious.
Under My Skin es la extracción del almizcle de la sombra; es un portal envolvente e hipnótico en el que te sientes deslizándote lentamente bajo las profundidades de una piscina sin luz perfumada con cuero, sándalo e iris y -esto podría ser simplemente una asociación de mi cerebro con el nombre del perfume y una película de título similar- es una interpretación olfativa de la inquietante pista minimalista de cuerdas que confiere miedo y misterio a los métodos de la tentadora alienígena para atraer y capturar a su presa en Under the Skin.