This perfume is spectacularly good!!!! Not to overestimate my powers as an 'Influencer' (or influenza? Jesus I hate and reject that term and in no way feel I am that or whatever) but.... I kinda don't want me or anyone else to big this perfume up too much because there's a finite supply and it's such a bloody hidden gem of a thing. Chypre lovers with cream their respective undergarments over this turbo, powdery, peachy opening, and dirty urinal cake undercurrent, shimmering, lightly metallic, honied musk, body odour cumin (actually caraway apparently but very similar) of something like Rochas Femme, Akro Night, kingdom, or mostly the fantastic Salome by Papillon artisan perfumes. As fantastic as that particular perfume is, Theo Fennell is spectacularly better than that! It's smoother more refined, it's transitions are seamless and beautiful. After all the slightly naughty excitement of the opening couple of hours you're left with a really nice musky, powdery rose hip, with strong ambery apricot chypre. This perfume is fucking brilliant!!!!! It's not just a take on a classic theme, it's truly a ballsy innovative piece, timeless is what it is. Who is it by? you might ask, well Christophe Laudamiel and Domicile Bertier apparently and what a way to knock it straight out of the park for a brand which is apparently a Jeweler (Thanks Fliss) who makes some really innovative pieces and clearly had a precise vision for their one and only perfume which was a total flop, but will gain immortality with fragrance enthusiasts because this is a blinder of a perfume.

This is one of those fragrances that I've always been aware of without ever really coming into contact with. I think I sprayed it in a shop once perhaps? Anyway I have now and I've got to say it's superb! To me it still has the main two components which made the original Homme so iconic and popular, the interplay of vanilla and lavender, however, as minimal and playfully 'nothing' as that fragrance is, this has way more heft without overstepping into one of those cloying, annoying fougere types but also not too dainty and elegant as to undermine the masculinity. It's a mossier, spicier version of the lavender centered perfume, with a drydown and soft, vanillic and meditative as the original. Let’s talk about the opening though, it sparkles with a labdanic effect, which gives the whole thing a luxurious feel, it’s a kind of creamy middle ground between Chypre and Fougere. I love it. I've seen it in a million peoples collections who I know like all this sort of business that I do, so it shouldn't come as such a surprise that a Caron perfume is great. I need it in my life, get in my wardrobe!!!

Almost every fibre of my being wants to dismiss this fragrance as some more fruity BS, which is supposed to be all playful and daring but is actually just not a very good perfume. I did say ‘almost’ because the great big, gurgling, sweet toothed, child inside me, can’t help but embrace this perfume and want to give it a great big hug and take it home with me. Also… ‘not a very good perfume’ isn’t true either, I don’t recall smelling anything like this, I’m no expert on these fruity, femme marketed florals but I’ve not smelled anything like this. It’s exotic and fruity in a way usually reserved for tropical tropes and beats you’ve smelled before. If this is the lychee accord then it’s really lovely. In fact I hadn’t had a lychee for years until the pandemic came and we were all at home and that, I got some super exotic fruit basket delivered, with a mix of shit I couldn’t even pronounce and the lychee (and similar) were AMAZING!!! So tasty and fragrant. Anyway, this is a really well constructed scent, dries down to a gorgeous rounded, soft musk too. Not my style, but from an amateur perfumery point of view fascinating fruity accord and minimal, modern structure I like. I enjoyed it overall.

Okay so to date I've tried no LV fragrances. This is my first one and I have to say, it's really quite nice. I mean 'quite' and 'nice' ??? I'm not exactly professing my undying love from a rooftop or anything but I'm wearing it today and it's hugely enjoyable. My initial notes said 'Dylan Blue except not for twats' but maybe this is? For twats I mean. I mean LV stuff is generally, sorry. Clearly I can’t afford it but I probably wouldn’t want it if I could. I only make that comparison because of the obvious masculine 'blue' smell to this perfume ( I actually don't think it smells like that as such, but interesting that some have listed Dylan blue here and BdC also listed here which I'd say it shares much more in common with) , but it has a certain elegance which means I'm reluctant to bash it as a mere shower gel, or deodorant smelling nicety. Also reminds me a bit of that grossly underrated Davidoff (I literally can’t remember the name of) I want to say Adventure? Adventurer? (If only there was a hugely popular and easy to access online database to check….yeah I’m writing a review right now and can’t be bothered opening another tab) It was good….that’ all you need to know. So what's clever and more refined about this then? Well the opening brightness is really lovely, then you have this nagging 90's aquatic floral smell at the back, which in 2022 is a telling olfactory metaphor for the fact...the 90's were fucking ages ago. Me using it as a perpetual frame of reference is the equivalent of a boomer banging on about how good the 60's were but anyway. The ginger and twist of effervescent citrus are welcome as the saltiness of this fragrance really starts to chime in, and I guess that's what makes this 'niche' or 'higher end', or more 'refined' or whatever I said to justify this massively mediocre crowd pleaser being an expensive Louis Vuitton. Which is fine. It’s tough to make something widely ubiquitous, fresh, and all that jazz, with a certain, transparency and subtlety of floral and musky notes, but manage to elevate it slightly. I think that’s what Cavalier has achieved here. Look I'm not one of these arseholes who says citrus fragrances 'SHOULD' be cheap. I mean why? They are literally one of the hardest things to do and excel at. Name me a good citrus by a self trained Indy perfumer, go on? No you can't do it can you? Because there aren’t any. I enjoyed this. It's a good wear but I'm never gona be in love with it. It is what it is.

Hey! Look! I'm the first person to say I love Woody ambers. Well, maybe love is a bit hyperbolic, I certainly like much maligned materials like ambroxan, cashmeran and Norlimbanol, IBQ, etc... which get a hard time from either snobs (include myself in there), or people who don't really understand what they are and how they are being deliberately used to benefit the perfume, or simply people who don't like them, and all of those are okay...it's all subjective and we're all free to have our opinions on stuff. Generally though, I'm not a straight outright hater when it comes to big, tenacious BOMBS and modern materials, so long as they are deftly applied and this SORT OF IS? (kinda??) I couldn't wear this. For all it's hyper colour of chewy, gourmand, resins and vanillic tobacco opening and ashy, smoky drydown, I can't get over the fact that AmberXtreme is screeching in my face. I mean it's a complex and balanced perfume, a modern triumph of tenacity and power, with loads going on and it's somewhat of a return to Amouage going BIG!!! (did they ever stop?) but it's not particularly enjoyable for me, I'm sorry to say. After the initial top notes and interesting tobacco 'angle' it's just kinda relentless! I mean I like aspects of it, and for all my criticism, I do appreciate the style and the skill on display here, but part of me also thinks, it seems as though the likes of Zarokian and Rasquinet have been given carte blanche on the tenacious, super power molecules and for all their talent, can't quite Sheppard these sprawling, beastmode concepts, into subtly conveyed perfume. And believe me if anyone can do it, it's those two. These kinds of release tend to be hit and miss with me personally, I'd site two similar recent offerings, I thought Silver Oud was decent (actually very similar to this, which is strange) and Enclave which I also enjoyed, and is yet another woody amber SLAYER!!!! I guess this is more of a general point about Amouage as much as it is a comment on this particular fragrance, which I don't hate btw, and I'm not saying is bad, like I said you either connect or you don't. My broader point about Amouage is just the direction, stuff under Chong (and before) used to be impactful and stylish and still is, but in a whole new way, I'm just not used to it yet and nor do I feel that the releases have been as good, sorry Mr Salmon. Top marks for the bottle. It seems they have scrapped the Opus style flask now (although Silver Oud was in one of those? I'm confused.) and this is housed in a standard collection, 'Man' bottle, which is all Matt finished white with a black cap and looks sleek and stylish but functional, like a souped up Mercedes or BMW M3 or something? UPDATE 16/08/22 So I was confident my appraisal of this perfume (based on spraying on my arm a couple of times) was accurate and I have enough experience to pen a review when not exactly the most familiar with a perfume, figuring my thought wouldn't change too much. Well they have! haha. No, fundamentally I stand by any implied negativity above (I wasn't that negative was I? I liked it even with minor critique) but having worn this for a day I have to say the experience was FANTASTIC! Which just goes to prove you should always wear things properly and give them a chance because studying something intently on your arm, you are going to fixate over the heavy set, woody ambers, and the sheer complexity of the thing. However when you wear it and let that go, it's not a screechfest but an inherently rewarding experience of dry ashen smoke and chewy resins with that dark tobacco/licorice opening and trail, then the amberX carefully softened and buffed to a satin sheen. I actually love it, I have to say.

It basically smells like Rochas Femme and Portrait of a Lady having an amorous spider fight on Lesbos. Then Patchouli starts perving on them. But it's also not that AT ALL. So it's finally here, Eugen's fragrance brand and I was privileged to be one of the guinea pigs, testing the water with acerbic, hard to please, so called 'reviewers'. This fragrance is perculiarly rosier at a distance than it is close up, on skin. On skin it's a sensual, spicy thing, at least to begin with. So honestly the rose is very measured, has some sweetness in the form of a pear type top note, then the twinkle of iris or violet to it, powdery in a slightly oldskool manner, there's a faint note of cumin or something giving that effect and then balmy resinous warmth. It's not a typical amber (did someone mention myrrh?) because it's much darker than the usual sweet benzoin or biting labdanum amber, also, myrrh and patchouli play very nicely together, especially in a composition so gentle as this one. The woody patchouli which follows is not obtuse or chocolatey, it's quite angular (for a while) and often thought to be synthetic smelling but that is just the way some patchouli oils are. All hangs cohesively with a kind of softness on the skin. The wearing experience is much more dusty and dusky and with a sombre tone, than perhaps my description would have you believe. Exquisite really is the word and I'm not just soft soaping and bypassing my critical eye because I consider Eugen a pal and because I really like and respect the people behind this brand like Antoine Lie, and Atelier Francais des matieres those high expectations made it have to work harder if anything. But this perfume has delivered. I think due to the name and the inspiration, there's a feeling that it should be more bombastic and impactful, but just think for a second about the sorts of perfume Eugen enjoys. Chanel for starters, I mean they sort of exist in a whole chic, echelon all of their own, and this is perfume which glimpes that aesthetic, it's not trying to wow you with the latest 'niche' fad or starfish notes or cannabis or grab your money because it's a Youtuber fragrance. It's about painting with a familiar palate to convey emotion, and for me, it does just that. Do not mistake refinement for banality. My particular enjoyment of this could be down to the fact I'm in the market for a rose at the moment and one which is not sweet or trope laden, and has a patchouli with some bite but also has dreamy, pussycat drydown and classic perfumery nods, and frankly this perfume has all those things. So good on Eugen and everyone involved for creating something really great with a meaningful brief. I know something of what this perfume means to him and where it's come from artistically, emotionally and that makes it all the more meaningful to me personally, and that's the only valid reason I might agree with as to why I connect with the perfume and why I could be a little biased. Speaking objectively, Antoine Lie has been involved in two other brands I can think of in recent years, in Eris and Les Indemodables, both of which I raved and gushed about, with no vested interest, so it stands to reason that a similar brand will also tickle my fancy. What I do find remarkable, is that each of these brands are distinctly different, as good as Les Indemodables are La Douleur Exquise is not just Les Indemodables MKII, it's not more of the same. Okay quality and artistically sure, and that's a good thing, but it's still a unique prospect and that is credit to Lie and Eugen. I can't wait to see what else this brand has to offer because this is a strong first outing for me, without being all shiny shiny, look at me, I think this will slowly plod on and grow in stature. I genuinely love it anyway, great perfume, take my money!

Finally we reach the end of the collection and to perfumer Marie Salamagne and this monstrosity! haha. Not really. Nutty, cotton textured, has this unpleasant, tide going out before a tsunami vibe to it. There's understated tonka musk and fuggy sandalwood bizzness sort of feel about it. I wasn't overly fond but it does have it' moments, and I could see how someone could love this, because there's potential to find something in it. I however couldn't connect with it.

At last!!!! An absolute triumph from this line. This is totally unique!!! (to me at least) What a great perfume, immediately grabbed my attention and frankly the bottle is my favourite out of this collection too, being purple and leopard print or whatever? I'm so glad it's good because this collection, although not shit, has not exactly overachieved so far. I just feel it's quite difficult to describe, doesn't smell like any osmanthus I know, but I suppose has a cool, airy, powdery thing to it. It's not really very leathery either and then BAM!!!! Very, very, sleek, suede leather base after a little time. I loved it, what a fantastic perfume. So I wrote that as an initial impression and as usual it's subject to making further notes when I've worn it more. It's no surprise, but also something of a stylistic shock to me that Fleur du Mal could be made by Quintin Bisch a highly prolific perfumer at the moment, modernising and sweeping through the industry, with his sparkly, cosmic, and complex style. This is not something I immediately attributed to him, like a Bois IMperial, or Teddy or a Barrois etc.... this a totally different kettle of fish and yet no less exciting. The way he's carrying on he's going to be one of my favourite perfumers working today. I can't wait to pop this sample on again and then I probably will buy a bottle. Even if this collection yields one thing I want to buy, I judge that as something of a success, being it's that PT Barnum thing that no doubt everyone will have one they really like from DVN.

Big, resinous, toffee amber, also edible but not tipping over into gourmand. Smells like when they throw the entire department at a perfume. Of course it appeals, but nothing really new. Gotta top making that a critique in a hugely saturated market and when people like certain familiar vibes. Truth is... it's nice. It's well made, it's a good perfume, I'd wear it and I'd say it's a crowd pleaser, and difficult not to enjoy and gives that excited feel of 'Luxury' from walking into a perfume department, and thinking oooooh that's nice. But nothing more and I don't feel like I can praise that, I have to be true to myself and think would I buy this if I had carefully considered it? perhaps not. Would I fall victim to smelling this is a shop and loving it and then regret it afterwards? Yes probably. uPDATE: 8/8/22: Yeah I'm wearing this today and it's quite different to my inital thoughts, yes it's a resinous brew with a raft of sweetness but it's way softer in the wearing than I'd perhaps imagined which makes it a bit less impactful to those looking for something really special from this collection but much more merit from those who just want something wearable and no challenge whatsoever. I've got to say I like it much more today having worn it, it's got a fruity sweet, almost date like quality with that smooth suede, not concocted from the usual tropes of iris materials or suederal or something? Not gonna lie it's making me swoon a little.

Don't you dare to invoke the late, great, Jimi Hendrix and have this be a shitty, boring fragrance Dries!!! Just don't! Good news!!!! :) I really liked this one. Woohoo!!! Voodoo chile is a patchouli with attitude. Smells like blackcurrant or juniper and sloes (sloe gin basically then) or something like that? Then you get the sweetness of the herbal note (says rosemary) all atop a really banging hippie, but also refined, patchouli. I thought it was clever enough and did things. All the surrounding stuff gives great compliment to the focal point. I like it!