Strong, classic Aramis fragrance. I had imagined I would like this take on the Chypre but instead it just wasn't to my taste. Strong leathery pine, oakmoss and carnation classic elements blended in such a way that they are not appealing to me. I think the reason being the opening is musky, too harsh and lasts to the point where I'm put off before I can reach a dry down, which in all fairness is nice. No doubt about it this is a purely masculine animal and some will love it. Great projection and longevity.

Nothing wrong with this scent at all, just insanely ordinary! It's pedestrian central Mont Blanc emblem has something inherently cheap about it. I've actually begun to revise my opinion of Mont Blanc, a luxury manufacturer with a great reputation and their fore into fragrance has to be deemed as a success to most due to the fact they have some winning fragrances. However, I've totally changed my opinion on Individuel for example and I'm not as keen on it as I used to be. Also scents like Exceptionel are frankly suffering from the same issues as Emblem...just too safe and maybe a little boring? Controversially perhaps...I think Legend is a pale version of A&F Fierce a scent which I like the smell of generally. I think if you're going to copy a fragrance at least make it on par with longevity and projection. Fierce is more intrusive for me and smells more industrial, which in a fragrance of this type is oddly better. Starwalker was 'pretty nice' but sadly discontinued I think... because I don't see it anywhere. The only one I still love is Presence which is just such an odd creamy, spicy oriental it's the only one for me with any novelty value. I think the most important thing to note is that they've never made a bad fragrance and there's not one I wouldn't wear so despite all the naysaying I do rate Mont Blanc. They choose good perfumers and solid concepts that sell. Anyway...Emblem! Emblem opens with inviting fresh citrus and maybe a hint of exotic fruit? The heart is another Tonka washout for me though very pleasant but all too familiar and very much the en vogue accord for bland designer fare at the moment. There's a hint of violet and spices, clary sage and cardamom, cinnamon is evident. This scent although not similar does lean toward Legend more than their other efforts. Likable, wearable and as many have mentioned the bottle is great and a perfect way to ram home the brands logo. I'll be honest I would like to try this fragrance again because I didn't really get much idea of longevity or projection and you never know it might grow on me?

Nah....not feeling it. I got some samples and have worn a couple of times now and I'm afraid I'm even going to revert on my original thoughts which were that this is average at best, it's not. Emblem is such a lacklustre outing from Mont Blanc very disappointing. Has that same synthetic, aquatic colone molecule thing which comes on strong in the opening and settles to a creamy Tonka affair...not good. Similar to many recent releases Invictus, Eros, and Burberry Brit rhythm. Surely there is more interesting olfactory songs to sing? Lazy stuff designed purposefully to have mass appeal, Mont Blanc have steered themselves in that direction after very original scents to begin with. Can't really blame them for chasing popular concepts they are in business after all, who cares about maintaining integrity with true fragrance fans who obviously weren't in big enough numbers to make starwalker, Individuel and Presence big sellers.

This Tauer is typically french like classic french cuisine or something? Simple elements brought together to create something multi faceted...Andy has nailed the brief on that one. An unfamiliar take on a lavender fragrance which from the name I had incorrectly assumed was going to be a very green affair. However, Reverie au Jardin is a slightly creamy vanilla/tonka/resinous base, sweet powder from orris root and rose but classic notes of oakmoss and lavender. It's clean, nice, interesting and great for a spring/summer fragrance but ultimately not to my taste. It lasts well and projects nicely too.

Andy Tauer just has this knack of making really unique scents. He's either a very gifted creative force or he has researched other fragrances massively because they seem to be very consciously different from anything out there...not an easy thing to do. His first two (Masculines) were great and could've been thought of as a one trick pony, not that Lonestar memories and L'air du desert Marocain smell alike but are certainly share the same signiture feeling. Having tried a few more of his fragrances now I see that he's very diverse and tackles lots of different accords in a unique way. This is not to say that they're always to my taste but I appreciate his innovative approach and commitment to the craft. So Eau D'Epices is a surprise package and strangely as complex and as many notes as it has, cinnamon is big player giving both sweetness and warmth. The opening is sweet swirling around with jasmine, orange and spices mainly of cinnamon/clove it's almost too much to bare. I think the orris root and ambergris are responsible for the sweetness too. I get labdanum and and overriding warm base of amber but here's the kicker...an orange blossom/tuberose white floral which develops and becomes the heart of Eau D'Epices. Just thought I'd mention I smell a definite tea in the drydown too...not sure what's giving that effect and it takes a while to come out but it's definitely there. That could've spelled disaster for this fragrance as I'm not a huge fan of them but it works really well with the spicing in this composition. I like this one but like many recent smaples I've tried...it's not for everyone. I'm gonna have to wear it again properly to see how it performs in a typical situation. Long lasting and good projection from what I can tell so far.

Wowee!!! What a sweet intense opening it's a fruity tangerine and bergamot then exotic ylang ylang and jasmine with labdanum. This beautiful amber accord is not for everyone and I can totally understand some being sickened by Mazzolari's Ambra. This could be construed as feminine and it sort of is but I really love it because it's warm throughout. The drydown is a total contrast to the opening, with all that stickiness and floral business out of the way it becomes a very deep and sensual amber accord with sandalwood. This for me represents a distinct gender shift because to me it becomes a more masculine affair way into the drydown. I really like the smell of Ambra it satisfies my love of Amber accords and super sweet fragrances with exotic floral elements, also expensive feeling resinous qualities...so it ticks lots of boxes. You know what though? I wouldn't wear it...far too sweet and cloying and I know it would get on my nerves after a while, this is one I can appreciate from afar. If I smelled this on a woman... I think I would fall in love. I understand why this one has the votes divided...not everyone's cup o tea.

Numero Uno can't help but have high expectations with a name like that. It's a classic take on the chypre type perfume I'd have sworn there's oakmoss in here as it has that trditional feel. In essence it's a woody warm, slightly floral, herbal, musk fragrance. Opens with bergamot and clean vetiver then the sharp labdanum, and myhrr start to come through. Then as it dries down settles to a more herbal type fragrance with patchouli, all these elements excellently balanced and don't take long to transition & quickly settle into a singular entity. I get a kind of animal smell, it's a natural one of pheromones, like skin or more specifically...scalp. Bare with me on this one. Some fragrances evoke this quality of when I kiss my girlfriend on the top of her head and I get a slightly herbal, soapy, shampoo, hair and warm scalp smell. Sounds a bit pervy I know...I don't have a scalp fetish honestly. So a good fragrance then...good but not great. It certainly communicates what it needs to with clarity and has good longevity and projection on my skin.

I was just through thinking how I've enjoyed all the ODIN samples I've tried so far without exception but not one has blown me away yet and I was really hoping Century would be the one to really wow me! I had a sneaking suspicion it wouldn't but that's no attitude to take into a blind fragrance test! Anyway....as I applied Century I was treated to a sweet opening of vanilla, amber and myrrh which set my pulse racing! It's an almost caramelised sweetness but you can tell it has a base firmly rooted in woods...yet it's not very woody in a tradition sense...if that makes sense??? Maybe it's the combination of birch tar, vetiver and patchouli that lend it the quality? I dunno? The mint note is there and comes on after a couple of minutes but it's very soft indeed, no sharp, cold menthol blast more of a hint of creamy peppermint . I found it unpleasant in this middle stage and a bit lacklustre after an opening I perceived as beautiful Century started to turn on me. Now I'm just bored by it, it's still smells good and arguably nicer again as it dries down but strength wise it's very poor I'm lucky to get a couple of hours from it. I will be wearing it again and will update this review if my second wear somehow liberates some magic...but somehow I doubt it. I have to hand it to Century I audibly moaned in a sexual manner when I first smelled it (not many fragrances make that happen!) but it just disappointed thereafter. Like sleeping with a beautiful woman then waking up in the morning and realising she will probably never love you, you have nothing in common, it'll never last! Realising... ultimately you're alone in the world.

Seylon from ODIN opens with citrus and a bitter orange which remains throughout. The vetiver comes on after the settling few seconds and it's a slightly smoky earthy texture with a definite hint of nutmeg. When everything settles finally the vetiver becomes very clean and woody with oakmoss and the warmth of benzoin too but with an almost powdery feel. It's a very good interpretation of vetiver nothing jarring or cloying, no intrusive top notes and the drydown only improves the overall smell. ODIN continue to impress me with their repertoire of fragrances, their signature seems to be warmth and balance. I'd wear ODIN 08 Seylon but I'm not crazy about it, if you like scents like Tom Fords Grey vetiver you will like this one.

Pentachord verdant is a dark horse it's not like anything I've tried before, which is something that Andy Tauer does well and should be proud of. The opening is a fresh blast of green leaves and the unmistakable scent of ivy encased in a puff of smoke which quickly dissipates. This is quickly backed by a menthol coolness of mint, strangely although this is a green scent the mint doesn't smell very authentic...if that makes sense? What I mean is it's not like smelling mint leaves more like a clean, cold, minty sensation. Mint is very evident thoughout and I'm surprised it's not listed in the notes here. Then Verdant takes a turn for the earthy and soil like which is not that typical patchouli dirt but somrhting which to my nose is entirely more palatable. The drydown is still lush and green but with sweetness, a hint of leather and tobacco but only a hint this fragrance is not deep but has a lovely mixture of green metallic and earthy notes. Pentachord Verdant is very interesting stuff...I like it! The projection is actually good it's a sneaky one just when it seems very quiet you'll get a wave of it coming at you. Doesn't last on my skin though but worth a sniff for the initial reaction, couldn't justify buying it but I enjoyed sampling.

This is my last Xerjoff sample (probably ever!) and I was really hoping for the masculine tones of the last one I tried 'Kobe' (I think?) Anyway, the opening is absolutely spectacular in that I was completely tricked into thinking I knew what to expect from this fragrance. WRONG!!! That opening is a quality wonderfully spicy sandalwood, labdanum & musk absolutely intoxicating. Okay it's not very original but very masculine and the quality of ingredients is translated clearly for me. However that lasts all of a few minutes before Richwood becomes unbearably floral and has a creamy edge from sandalwood and vanilla which is being soured by other notes to come off as hand cream. There's still some vague fruitiness and Remanence of that opening which just about makes it bearable and interesting to sniff. It's a remarkably well blended fragrance again from Xerjoff but not something I enjoyed all that much except the first 3 minutes or so. (update: it does improve again into the drydown and becomes woodier again with lovely sandalwood then right at the death... earthy patchouli which smells really, really nice when this subdued and in the vein of something like LIDGE or Tom Ford Noir.) The argument about price will rage on. I've said it time and time again, I believe if you have to take price into consideration... you can't afford it! This is what luxury brands rely on, people who have the money regardless of how much quality the ingredients have. The price reflects the exclusivity and name of the brand and that's what you're paying for! I don't have a huge disposable income but I do love fragrance and purely on my personal taste I could be tempted by a fragrance at this price point but it would have to be very, very, special indeed! More and more I realize that many exclusive brands like Xerjoff just aren't worthy of the expenditure.

Okay...so I first reviewed this several years ago (below) and have recently got another sample as I’d forgotten what Richwood was all about. It’s an interesting excercise, to revisit some perfumes, especially because my tastes are a constantly shifting landscape. However, my thoughts remain unchanged and reading my review was interesting because I thought EXACTLY the same thing. This fragrance is high quality, complex, interesting and pretty wonderful perfumery, and there’s definitely something about it but the florals at the heart of Richwood make it boarderline unwearable for me. Very unusual to love something (because I do) and not like it at the same time, a peculiar paradox.