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Woah! This is heavy as hell and I should of expected it from Heeley. I often write witty concise reviews in my head which are full of interesting new words instead of the same old cliches I spout so frequently. Then when I come to write the review...Gone! Oh well The insanely sweet, Turkish delight rose in this creation provoked a completely different reaction the first time I tried it. I got an oud note in the very first sniff then detected a super sweet rose which just gets more and more pronounced, to which I thought this is going to be a Montale like effort and I'm going to hate it. Somehow it crossed over and got so intensely rosy and concentrated that it went all the way back around from awful to exquisite. It's very much like the Bubblegum chic in that it's so pungent it smells as far from natural or even floral as you can get and become a atomic chemical monstrosity, like some sort of food additive concentrate that's meant to be diluted at 1ppm. The result was weirdly enough I liked it for being so bonkers and FULL ON! My second trial came today and upon application I got a similar effect except this time I got the usual powder of expensive high end rose/oud's... a sickening urinal cake vibe, complete with urine! Maybe my skin was different today? I've really no idea? So I can't really decide what's going on? One thing is for sure Agarwoud is a nuts and has to be tried by rose lovers.
Opens like a musky masculine juice which is a perfect aromatic and quite potent in the opening. It settles to a juicy natural citrus and zesty orange/lavender top with vetiver, cedar and come herbal notes and cardamom. It's nice, a really clean, safe smell which is traditional and almost impossible to be offended by. However, it's not original or tasty enough to capture my attention. This house is good though that's two out of two for them so far. If you like a well blended classical stuff then it's worth checking I out. Longevity isn't bad and it projects really well at first, like for 1/2 hour or so.
Par 4 is a fresh fragrance which to me opens pretty aquatically and very similar to Agua de Loewe EL which is a gorgeous smelling fruity opening. Doesn't take long however for the development of a range of herbs, basil, clary sage and predominantly saffron. It smells almost exactly like Prada Amber, which is a great endorsement, a Superb, soapy, cleanness is the signature of this fragrance at it's heart is vetiver. 'Dominated by Labdanum and saffron' is not quite accurate to begin with but then the drydown progresses and becomes more and more true. The galbanum and woods in the base set this apart from either perfume I compared it to previously. Par 4 is a three act play, a triple threat which pocesses real quality. 1st act is a citrus and fruity note burst which is truly lovely. 2nd act is Prada Amber saffron/herby/soapy. 3rd act is resins and woods making a formidable base. Minor critism is the whole process is over a little quickly and longevity is poor but I can't wait to try this again I was really impressed.
The opening little puff of rose didn't indicate whether I would like this fragrance or not but as it settles it's my kind of deal. Balsamic, spicy, woody all good so far and the sandalwood develops as it dries down. Reminds me a tiny bit of the new Tobacco oud from Tom Ford. However there's nothing outstanding here and the longevity is pathetic, I mean seriously poor! I never smelled the original formulation but if this was stronger and more ballsy with more oud, good quality sandalwood, a longer lasting rose note and perhaps some more spices? It would be a winning (and completely different)fragrance. Don't get me wrong I like the smell but there's many better perfumes out there.
A cold opening juniper and mint jumping out right off the bat. The guaic wood and vetiver is present in the opening too then Isos proceeds to get spicier and spicier. It starts with pepper which builds into a clove note then in the drydown a sweeter myrrh. Isos is not too dissimilar to a recent perfume I tried, Paul Smith portrait and while it's notable I'd still describe this as being very unique and different in distinct stages throughout the experience. This fragrance has a unbelievable progression of notes everything listed comes through clearly and while I'm not mad about this fragrance I can ignore that sort of thing when it delivers so many complimentary components. A good unique fresh, spicy, woody fragrance and I can't wait to wear it properly.
I think Ceruleen means '...up the wahzoo!' This is an INTENSELY resinous warm, deep uber powdery amber... This is an attack of amber! The quality displayed here is great because it's all about balance. The opening is wierd the whole thing takes time to develop but when it does it's gorgeous! Rough, for just a moment a sweet, hot spice effect (a bit like cinnamon) coming from opoponax, then smooth tonka beans and sandalwood. This is an example of simple construction where the notes themselves have several facets which shine to create more than the some of it's parts. I like amber so naturally this scent appeals to me however I can definitely see how it would be too much for some. Update: So funny when I read a review then revisit a perfume years later, (April 2020) I think putting 'INTENSELY' in caps was a bit misleading but largely my thoughts are the same. This is one of those amber perfumes which smells barely there in the opening, no real top notes to speak off and sleek, sheer santal and coumarin merging all the resin into indistinct fuzz of warmth. Knowing perfume means you learn to detect little foibles and pick up on signs and a meek opening amber is usually a less full on experience than say a labdanum/incense heavy amber like TF's Amber absolute for instance. This is more laid back, powdery, balmy and lighter on it's feet but still just a massive chunk of a Base/Bass heavy perfume. I like it but compared to a million other amber's it doesn't announce itself nearly enough to warrant special attention, a pleasant wear though.
Massive Fig note in the opening which has all the juiciness and green qualities you'd expect, It's wild but not as much as diptyque's Philosykos. That lasts a few minutes then you're treated to a delicate woody amber. I'm not familiar with pear wood to be honest but the smell here is a fruity wood accord which I find very appealing. The drydown is delicate and blossom like... a kind of peachy powder. I'd prefer it on a woman, not that it's feminine but I don't think I'd wear it. Hasn't blown me away but is a very interesting start for a house which doesn't use conventional notes. I'm looking forward to some of the other samples I have.
Am I losing the plot here or what? Bois d'Argent? Two comparisons here and I don't think it smells anything like it. 450 has a delicious opening of sweet, sticky, amazing gourmand vibes and musk... Really it smells caramel like to me with a hint of powdery iris. This scent is all about amber for me, a straight up dusty amber accord which is balanced up not to be too sweet and compliment the other notes. I wouldn't have said this is a floral fragrance more of an oriental amber which smells edible to me. I love it, I have to say. First scent from this house and they're off to a blinder!
I look at the notes for this and think 'How did it go wrong?' but unfortunately it does. Something fundamentally wrong with the composition in my opinion, like a mixture of oriental and fougere type elements. I think the deep, boozy powder doesn't mix with the fir and lavender in fact the combo is strange. The opening is very nice and doesn't really hint at what it's going to drydown to, it's bergamot, fir and feels classic and masculine. Then the drydown is...well a bit of a let down. I get a tonka bean type creaminess, musk and lavender which just feels a bit done and reminds me of lots of fragrances. I hate to naysay this fragrance because it's okay and I could understand it having appeal but Frank fragrances are very average affairs from the two I've tried. Not daring enough to catch my attention I'm afraid.
Can't get around the fact that I like this fragrance it has that Herbal essences shampoo (not that I've smelled it in years) vibe to it. Angelic seed, floral notes...it's pretty nondescript to me, it has a freshness but I can't say I get mint from it? The opening is a juicy realisic orangey/bergamot to me but that doesn't last long before the shampoo comes on strong. It's a very clean smell and doesn't offend me but couldn't wear this as it's not what I define as fine fragrance.