Hmmmm...there should be a lot to like here but sadly this misses the mark for me. Firstly I'm glad just to find Monotheme in stores, as these scents have alluded me for years now and finally I get to try them. Starts out with a peppery spice in the opening which for me was hugely promising but sadly doesn't last long and the promise fades along with my hopes about this fragrance. There's a definite labdanum and Amber vibe with a powdered floral feel and underpinned with woods. I have to say this just feels a little tired and slightly dated, almost granny like. I found the performance to be reasonably good and this brand are obviously of some quality for the comparitably low asking price. My verdict is that Black our is a perfectly good fragrance just not my bag and if you are looking for oud although it's present I'd look elsewhere.

Balmain is a brand I respect. I'm not sure why as they don't really cater toward men and when they do there's not many to choose from. Regardless I still like them, a bit Lalique I'm won over by the niche appeal at designer prices. This however is generic rubbish. So sorry to say that because I've no doubt it's wearable and it didn't offend me or anything but possibly worse than that I thought I'd smelled it all before. This was not something I expected from Balmain and especially with a name like Homme, you'd think it was the captain of the flagship? (also because of the Nepoleonesque uniform.) Yeah the bottle is prehaps the most appealing thing about it. The top notes are a tired aquatic like, fresh bergamot then a whispy, synthetic violet accord which again is okay and you could be fooled for thinking quite nice in the first minutes, but I want more frankly! Then like many fragrances these days...burberry brit or Versace Eros to name a couple...it tries to do too much. Ie: fresh and crowd pleasing, ethereal and classically perfumed violet then a faux oriental base of warmer woods and tonka beans and a slightly powdery 'leather' thing??? I don't really get Saffron from Balmain Hommme either but perhaps if I try it again it my come through?? My point is, everything is mixed into oblivion, blended into mediocrity, you can't do everything with a fragrance or it just comes out having no identity at all...for this Balmain are guilty there's just something cheap smelling about it and that is quite the crime. Longevity was 'average' believe it or not? a bit like everything else about this one.

A very decent offering from Jo Malone and a great addition to the Cologne intense range. Speaking of the black bottles, I have to say that despite all being very good in their own right, they don't offer much in the way of unique composition with the exception of Oud & Bergamot which doesn't really smell like either but manages to be the stand out of this line. This kinda suffers with the same thing because it's a fairly straight forward spicy incense fragrance. The opening is a heady refreshing olibanum, bubbling and zesty like a cool gin & tonic. Elemi also has this similar effect so those two are very apparent off the bat. Then the spicing becomes more apparently woody, it's a peppery woods vibe, which is kinda like sandalwood without any of the creamy element to it, rather than cedar. This definitely has a more grimey element to it than avignon or cardinal which I think are more uplifting and frankincense/elemi dominated. I have to say when dried down I get the quality and warm of my favorite resins, balmy labdanum and benzoin remaining close to the skin after being initially quite strong. I think the quick fading down to a skin scent is not always a bad thing especially with scents like this and the fact I'm wearing it in the summer. Performance is okay generally. All in all it's good and props the Jo Malone company for moving into this territory because it suits and enhances the range. I wouldn't buy it but if they did a mini set with all of these in I would definitely get it. Update: Deep into the drydown now and it has vague qualities of Armani myrrhe imperiale or black afgano but not as deep or luxurious. Still nice though, as heavy spicy woods go this delivers. I love labdanum and I definitely feel the vibes in here.

Yet another 'Intense' fragrance. Flankers are unashamedly cashing in on their predecessors these days. Bottle looks really cool to be fair and I'm not judging, might be really good?

I'm a big, big, tea fan and anything with 'Tea' in the name definitely peaks my interest, especially 'Tea escape' I have to say I'm undecided and will definitely take another sample to work out just what's going on? I think it's the rice in here? There's definitely an unknown herbal type element to it? I think I know what rice smells like but I've not sure whether it belongs in a fragrance I want to wear. I will give tea escape this...it's a unique, almost odd proposition, even the tea is not a smoky, aromatic earl grey, neither is it classically dry or metallic? But it is definitely tea. Tea is typically coupled with citrus notes and it's refreshing that Maison Martin Margiela and Pellegrin have decided to go in a different direction with it. The osmanthus and floral element shouldn't be downplayed in this fragrance because it is a big part and as it settles offers up a unique flavour which reminds me of Lush products. That mixture of natural and synthetic it really is a very interesting smell. Must return to this one because I was tempted to buy it just for strangeness and had to refrain.

'At the barbers shop' is a perfectly named fragrance (unlike many these days) I was expecting clean, herbal, green soap and leathery aromatic goodness and that's exactly what I got. The opening is slightly sharp and fresh with a hint of citrus perhaps then lavender and basil. The heart and base is a milky, soapy talcum, musk and geranium type vibe. It Smells very familiar almost comforting and dries down to a masculine clean leathery scent on my skin. Can't go wrong really. No innovation here though perhaps this scent could do with a few more notes? Maybe I'm missing the point? I don't think this fragrance is intended to be special, it's functional and practical like the branding and feel of all the scents from this house. Simplicity is the key here and it works. Could of done with slightly better performance considering this is a niche brand, and although not expensive for 100ml, it's still slightly lacking. I can't fault this one overall though, it's just for men who know what they want... a nice shave, soap fragrance.

Total disappointment. The reasons why? Well mainly that I was hoping it would deliver a totally different experience but instead has been played a little straight, safe and close the original accord. This smells like the original, good right? Yep...that is good I like the original. Is the 'Extreme' in the title worthy? Well it is more extreme. (at least in the opening and first hour or two, sure it is!) however apart from the definite addition of more aggressive spicing (cumin is apparent) for me it has a disgusting hairspray/ammonia bitterness and this thing I can't put my finger on about modern concoctions, which makes them deeper, harder more long lasting but don't improve them and in some cases completely ruin the opening and take a long time to smooth out. This unfortunately is one of those cases. However, when dried down is very much like the original except for a deeper Amber/ tobacco, and a creamy vanilla base especially observable in the very late stages of the drydown. This I have to admit is kinda lovely. So it's not bad then, just sweet and cloying like the original but in a whole new way. Spicebomb extreme makes Spicebomb seem subtle and understated...yeah that's right. Projection and longevity are both very good I thought. Worth checking out but don't get your hopes up because like mine they will be dashed.

Although this says for women I would describe it as a unisex gourmand fragrance. However, once upon a time I did buy Visa for myself and ended up giving it to my girlfriend as I just felt I could pull it off but it was that bit too feminine for me. This has that feeling too and a slight fruity/floral quality of Visa, this is mainly in the top notes because the base of this thing is a vanillac, tonka and an eastern sandalwood feel of Cashbah too. So an oriental with a definite depth and quality you'd expect from Robert Piguet...It lasted well on my skin. That's all I can say about it really? The jury is out but I will definitely sample it again in a few months and update.

Wow! This is a superb vetiver, dark, harsh, slightly smokey, a hay like dryness and green grassy wetness it's brilliant...everything it should be. Very good (If not the best Vetiver) in terms of a natural, accurate perfume but not necessarily my favourite vetiver compositionally. The opening has a citrus twang, also tinged with menthol which is uplifting as well as slightly strange. Despite all this praise... I don't think I want to wear it especially. Vetiver veritas is of high quality and the Eau de Parfum concentration lasts fairly well and projects gently. If you're a vetiver fan this should definitely be on your radar.

Oh wow! This is a stunner. Very much in the vein of those heady, sweet leather fragrances like Tuscan leather, Clive Christian C, golden boy, AdP leather....etc etc... But crucially this has much more of a delicate touch. When I say that don't get me wrong it's just as deep as the counterparts I've mentioned but possibly has more dimensions in that I definitely smell more of an incense bias. It's sweet, warm, smoky and I can surely see why the name is becoming. Additionally it's more wearable (on a regular basis) than a Tuscan leather type scent. It has a touch of the noble incense about it, saffron smoothness and although not dominated by frankincense I definitely get that from L'incendiaire too. The only negative I can think of is that I didn't buy it in the spot. I do have Clive Christian C and have had the chance to get others (I view as pale in comparison) but for all it's likeness this new Serge Lutens still has merit and I suspect when trailed side by side the differences will be even more apparent. I loved it. Top marks from me. hmmmm...Update. Well I say above "...not dominated by frankincense..." ??? yeah...that's wrong. After a turbulent and opulent opening this fragrance dries down to a perfectly high quality and slightly darker Olibanum than usual...but it is just that....olibanum. I must've been nose blind first time out, I stick to what I said about L'incendiaire it gives a complex impression when first applied but doesn't take long to die down to a heady frankincense and I'm so sorry to SL and Sheldrake but I can get that (I except not quite this) elsewhere cheaper. It shouldn't be about money but in this case I have to pass on this fragrance.