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I think my TF counter put this out early by mistake because I've already tried it, sighed, and moved on. I hate to be reductive for a few reasons not least of which being the fact that I like the fragrance I'm going to compare this to, and because it's so easy to say...this is like this. Rose Prick to me feels like a reworked Noir de Noir. If you've smelled NdN this opens with an airier, creamier feel much more like the sheerness of a FF or Soleil Blanc or Santal. Then the 'darkness' grows bringing some of that, candlelit, red wine dinner table rose of Noir de Noir. It might just be the same Rose/Patchouli mix dealing a bit of earth into what is in effect a creamy, hazy rose fragrance. I like it. I wasn't wowed by it, it progresses into different moods whereas I find NdN quite linear, but this isn't as 'dark' so it's a trade off. The name is stupid. I mean I'm no prude and I defended Fucking Fabulous, I then tolerated Lost Cherry (after rolling my eyes quite heavily) but now it's getting a bit tired.
The way Rouge smoking opens is undoubtedly interesting and carries on from themes of Lost Cherry by Tom Ford a scent I actually revisited on the same day I sampled this. It's funny how your mind associates cherry with almond and vice versa and materials like Benzaldehyde and bitter almond oil contain the qualities of both, as does the love/hate relationship I have with Heliotrope. This has some top note presence though and adds a grown up, almost sophisticated flavour to what I often consider quite a childlike smell of cherries, with a mildly spiced edge, and balmy quality of amber. There's floral sense to it as well but it's creamy base of tonka growing all the while until you are left with a perfume which is indulgently and unapologetically coumarin and almond heavy. A kind of creamy soup, I kinda like and if you love that stuff is clearly enjoyable but I couldn't wear it, just not my scene.
To be honest the notes don't ring true to how I experienced this perfume. The peachy opening you expect of powdery Hermes or honied, peach classics or even other Andrier stuff is not what I get, it's a light suggestion of peach wrapped in a very dry accord of woody ionones, perpetually playing peekaboo with amber and vanilla sweetness but in this shifting, minimal but endlessly complex dance. Wierdly it finishes on patchouli, a material I couldn't smell throughout the whole wear until now, nose nuzzled deep into my skin...there it is. It's almost totally classic Andrier, everything in it's right place and just when you think it's boring or derivative of her other stuff, it changes ever so slightly, like a kind of rotating object catching the light but never quite revealing it's true shape. If you like musky, prada, powdery, woody, iris works from this perfumer, you will enjoy this. I did. Not bowled over though by any means I'd say it's the middle ground between that yellow one she did for Bvlgari (Zahina is it?) and her staple musky, Iris minimality of She was an anomaly. I basically love this perfumer and that everything carries her signature but sniff a little deeper and they are all subtly different and it's those subtleties that fascinate me.
Wow! This is hugely interesting, a real eyeopener with so many niche brands I'd seen these bottles around but just sort of glazed over especially a brand with Initials just doesnt really capture my attention no matter how nice the bottles are. (Which they are.) It's the stuff inside that matters and this comes out with a boozy almost gourmand smell but it's not trying too hard to be all sozzled, more smooth and effortless. You don't really get a lot of jasmine initially but a certain exotic and waxy florality, gently throbs at the back of aged, sweet sherry cask of thing that Wood Jasmin is. Clearly resinous and warm too. The drydown definitely reminds me of something else, (I can't place) more dried fruit, lightly vanillic but not all creamy or typical. For a man that doesn't need any more orientals and often states he doesn't like gourmands, this is sort of neither and both and I'm on a no buy thing at the moment, I still want a bottle. I will have to wear it properly but the initial signs are good.
Wow!!! This is a rich composition on the gourmand spectrum eventually evoking a kind of ebony or dark woods and Bounty choclate bars. Yes this combination of cacao, tobacco, amber, coffee has subtle undertones of coconut which is complementary and likely coming from all these materials like fine rum and vanilla etc... I absolutely adore it! I'm not a gourmand fan particularly and would never actively seek out a gourmand attar of all things but this is FANTASTIC!
I'm steadily getting through my Pasha attars and this one when first dabbed on skin smells of light camphor like a gentle eucalyptus, then cypress, greens, olibanum resinoid. Then give it a rub and the spice of cinammon erupts, joining the composition in a very complementary way think Z14 by Halston. This is a dirtier dry down though and goes into a massively woody territory, to dank Forrest woods and peppery bark and resinous incense. A appealing fragrance.
I'm about to gush.... Again! This is divine. I have to own this it's majestic. This is REAL magic come to life, I didn't think I'd be so taken with an amber fragrance but don't forget about the leather element. One of the best leather accords I've ever smelled. If Sultan was going for old leather bound books then he beyond nailed it! Usually when making leather accords there's tropes like castoreum, labdanum, birch tar etc... But also you have synthetics like Isobutylquinoline and Cuir bases like Suederal and Cuir 17500 at your disposal and you can push leather in different directions..because like many smells, you might think in your own mind that 'leather' is one thing but it's a broad, broad church. Sultan redefines it. This fragrance redefined to me what is possible from a leather accord. Maybe the leather on it's own IS more like a castoreum biased leather I've smelled before but brought together with amber, it modifies it to shine in a whole new way? Ambrecuir opens like a boozy, malt whisky smell but so incredibly refined, and smooth. Next comes a wave of leather and it's soft as butter, yet it's lived in, and has a life, cracks and wealth of stories to tell. Then into the sweetness element which is mildly tinged with a sweet, honey, medicinal note. The dryness and ancient, dustiness is there but it's not too much, it doesn't make your face implode from cotton mouth. This is a thick amber colour from the nectar of the honey bee's to the discoloured pages to the patina on the leather binding, this scent is vivid and alive. I think I'm going to cry? Emotive, life affirming perfumery.
I think Pasha is redefining what attars can do with this by recreating a classic chypre feel and evoking memories for me that were long forgotten. This is special. It opens with citrus and a heavy narcotic, boozy smell but booze that's been infused with cask woodiness. It's not a spirit though, it's more gentile, like a fine wine with peach nuances and gloriously floral but doesn't smell of anything predominantly. It's a vague blossom but not neroli, orange flower or petgrain there's no waxiness or fatty effect. Jasmine but with non of the indolics or tropical banana sensation, and none of the volume of tuberose. Basically it's floral but I'm not sure how? The base is deep and animalic to of set the brightness and it's vaguely, almost smokey, like a stale clean bomfire smoke that's been infused into fabric. I can't say I've ever smelled anything like this an yet it's so familiar, setting olfactory synapses firing.
This is off the charts! Absolutely, stratospheric! Life-changingly good! I mean...holy moly! I have used tobacco absolute materials of varying origins and they are all pretty fantastic. However, as surprisingly thick and potent as they appear, they can bit tricky to use and fight for pride of place in a composition. Anyone who thinks it's easy or linear to present tobacco in this way is naive to say the least. The opening for me is like the blend of classic perfumes in that you get a realistic honey note and animalics in the background humming away. Then the tobacco builds and what a fine tobacco material he's using, deeply, deeply faceted you can just fall into it and be enveloped by the dark, seductive goop. Now I smoke cigars and have been known to have a pipe now and again and I can honestly say this tobacco although incredibly authentic, doesn't evoke the saccharine sweet tobacco that I usually go for. Nor does it have the manure or peppery edge of a fine Habana cigar and this shouldn't surprise anyone but it doesn't smell of the smoke of tobacco, but instead the beautiful sensation of sticking your head right into one of those tubs of pipe tobacco they have in the tobacconists. This is a particularly mellow tobacco and probably not one I would choose to smoke, as I mentioned I prefer the almost too sweet smelling stuff because it remains sweet in the smoking, which I like. Something like this would smell DIVINE raw but that's not why I buy tobacco to sit around admiring and not smoking it. It does have a hay like quality (maybe some hay absolute) but likely just from the tobacco, bitter coffee nuance, animalics, natural sweetness, woodiness, booze, it's a complete treat and takes me right back to being a kid and buying tobacco (perhaps when I shouldn't have been?) from Henry Monks which also sold shotguns! This is a revelation and the attar is very thick and very dark and would likely stain your clothes badly but in all likelihood you could spill this and it would take about 3 years to migrate out of the bottle, if it even moved at all?
Oh For fucks sake Mr Eleven cheer up mate! 'Oh these attars are rubbish, oh these attars don't last and NONE of them have any silage' I'm reading your reviews and I can hear this whiny droning in my head. Objectively speaking now (because hopefully you can trust me to speak for EVERYONE when I say) Sultan's attars are absolutely stunning! Anyone that says otherwise is wrong. Simple as that. Do I like them all? No. Would I buy the vast majority of them? No. Are they masterfully curated in a way that you just don't get from other attar makers who don't use half as many materials or show as many 'looks' as this guy? YES! The nature of these rare and stunningly rendered materials is that they might be fleeting, and who cares, I'd rather have loved and lost... and all that. They are all STRONG to begin with and that's the main thing. This is like a dewy morning, all glistening and beaded foilage and suggestions of undergrowth, beautiful clary sage and oakmoss giving herbal, earthy textures then a mild sweetness. Then comes the wet florals of hyacinth but it's completely tamed by a robust woodiness and faint animalic, greenery. I'm surprisingly beguiled by this one because I thought it might be too floral, but it's perfect.